3 x 3 reps 10s on 5s off & 1 min rest between sets 90s of total work per hand

3 x 5 reps 10s on 5s off & 1 min rest between sets 150s of total work per hand

4 x 3 reps 15s on 5s off & 1 min rest between sets 180s of total work per hand

4 x 4 reps 15s on 5s off & 1 min rest between sets 240s of total work per hand

4 x 3 reps 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest between sets 360s of total work per hand

4 x 4 reps 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest between sets 480s of total work per hand

4 x 5 reps 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest between sets 600s of total work per hand

5 x 5 reps 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest between sets 750s of total work per hand

6 reps and 4 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets 2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp Switch hands and repeat the session

6 reps and 4 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

8 reps and 4 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

10 reps and 4 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

6 reps and 5 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

8 reps and 5 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

10 reps and 5 sets 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets Switch hands and repeat the session

Tabata Timer

SEE ALL OUR PROGRAMS BELOW

Using the 20mm edge

MEDIUM LEVEL ENDURANCE

This program is based on building endurance through repeated efforts at a lower intensity.

Start with 3 reps of 3 sets, 10 secs on and 5 secs off. Work one hand at a time until all sets are complete. Increase reps/sets if too easy. Use the Tabata Timer to set times.

Hand using a climbing device with a white background

MEDIUM VOLUME ENDURANCE STARTER GRIP PROGRAM

3 x 3 reps
10s on 5s off & 1 min rest
between sets
90s of total work per hand

3 x 5 reps
10s on 5s off & 1 min rest
between sets
150s of total work per hand

4 x 3 reps
15s on 5s off & 1 min rest
between sets
180s of total work per hand

4 x 4 reps
15s on 5s off & 1 min rest
between sets
240s of total work per hand

4 x 3 reps
30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
between sets
360s of total work per hand

4 x 4 reps
30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
between sets
480s of total work per hand

4 x 5 reps
30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
between sets
600s of total work per hand

5 x 5 reps
30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
between sets
750s of total work per hand

López-Rivera, E. and González-Badillo, J.J.,
2016. Comparison of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal
finger strength in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock
climbing research congress. Telluride, Colorado.

Using Trainer & Specialist grips

Lower Volume Maximum Tension Strength & power

The program is based on building Strength and RFD (Rate of Force Development) with repeated efforts. The protocol is common as it's consistent with bouldering efforts.

We recommend 2 sets of open crimp followed by 2 sets of half crimp. To increase resistance, tighten the band or consider investing in a 2nd band. You must initiate the pull as quickly as you can and hold for proper neural adaptation. This is based on various studies.

Lower Volume Maximum Tension – Trainer Grip Program

6 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
Switch hands and repeat the session

6 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
Switch hands and repeat the session

6 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
Switch hands and repeat the session

López-Rivera,
E. and González-Badillo, J.J., 2016. Comparison
of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal finger strength
in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock climbing
research congress. Telluride, Colorado.

Levernier,
Guillaume1,2; Laffaye, Guillaume1,2. Four
Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the
Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers. Journal of Strength and
Conditioning Research 33(9):p 2471-2480, September 2019. | DOI:
10.1519/JSC.0000000000002230

Anderson, M.L., Anderson,
M.L. and Sanders, A., 2016. An
innovative hangboard design to improve finger strength in rock climbers.
Procedia Engineering, 147, pp.269-274.

Lower Volume Maximum Tension – Specialist Grip Program

6 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

8 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

10 reps and 4 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

6 reps and 5 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

8 reps and 5 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

10 reps and 5 sets
7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
Switch hands and repeat the session

López-Rivera,
E. and González-Badillo, J.J., 2016. Comparison
of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal finger strength
in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock climbing
research congress. Telluride, Colorado.

Levernier,
Guillaume1,2; Laffaye, Guillaume1,2. Four
Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the
Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers. Journal of Strength and
Conditioning Research 33(9):p 2471-2480, September 2019. | DOI:
10.1519/JSC.0000000000002230

Anderson, M.L., Anderson,
M.L. and Sanders, A., 2016. An
innovative hangboard design to improve finger strength in rock climbers.
Procedia Engineering, 147, pp.269-274.