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SEE ALL OUR PROGRAMS BELOW

Using the 20mm edge

MEDIUM LEVEL ENDURANCE

This program is based on building endurance through repeated efforts at a lower intensity.

Start with 3 reps of 3 sets, 10 secs on and 5 secs off. Work one hand at a time until all sets are complete. Increase reps/sets if too easy. Use the Tabata Timer to set times.

Hand using a climbing device with a white background

MEDIUM VOLUME ENDURANCE STARTER GRIP PROGRAM

  • 3 x 3 reps
  • 10s on 5s off & 1 min rest
    between sets
  • 90s of total work per hand
  • 3 x 5 reps
  • 10s on 5s off & 1 min rest
    between sets
  • 150s of total work per hand
  • 4 x 3 reps
  • 15s on 5s off & 1 min rest
    between sets
  • 180s of total work per hand



  • 4 x 4 reps
  • 15s on 5s off & 1 min rest
    between sets
  • 240s of total work per hand



  • 4 x 3 reps
  • 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
    between sets
  • 360s of total work per hand



  • 4 x 4 reps
  • 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
    between sets
  • 480s of total work per hand



  • 4 x 5 reps
  • 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
    between sets
  • 600s of total work per hand



  • 5 x 5 reps
  • 30s on 15s off & 90 secs rest
    between sets
  • 750s of total work per hand



López-Rivera, E. and González-Badillo, J.J.,
2016. Comparison of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal
finger strength in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock
climbing research congress. Telluride, Colorado.



Using Trainer & Specialist grips

Lower Volume Maximum Tension Strength & power

The program is based on building Strength/Power with repeated efforts. The protocol is common as it's consistent with bouldering efforts.

We recommend 2 sets of open crimp followed by 2 sets of half crimp. To incease resistance, tighten the band or considering investing in a 2nd band. This is based on various studies.

Lower Volume Maximum Tension – Trainer Grip Program

  • 6 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • 2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 6 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • 2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 6 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • 2 sets of open grip and 2 sets of half crimp
  • Switch hands and repeat the session

López-Rivera,
E. and González-Badillo, J.J., 2016. Comparison
of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal finger strength
in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock climbing
research congress. Telluride, Colorado.

Levernier,
Guillaume1,2; Laffaye, Guillaume1,2. Four
Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the
Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers. Journal of Strength and
Conditioning Research 33(9):p 2471-2480, September 2019. | DOI:
10.1519/JSC.0000000000002230

Anderson, M.L., Anderson,
M.L. and Sanders, A., 2016. An
innovative hangboard design to improve finger strength in rock climbers.
Procedia Engineering, 147, pp.269-274.

Lower Volume Maximum Tension – Specialist Grip Program

  • 6 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 8 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 10 reps and 4 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 6 reps and 5 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 8 reps and 5 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session
  • 10 reps and 5 sets
  • 7 seconds on and 3 seconds off. 2 mins rest between sets
  • Switch hands and repeat the session

López-Rivera,
E. and González-Badillo, J.J., 2016. Comparison
of the effects of three hangboard training programs on maximal finger strength
in rock climbers. In Proceedings of the 3rd international rock climbing
research congress. Telluride, Colorado.

Levernier,
Guillaume1,2; Laffaye, Guillaume1,2. Four
Weeks of Finger Grip Training Increases the Rate of Force Development and the
Maximal Force in Elite and Top World-Ranking Climbers. Journal of Strength and
Conditioning Research 33(9):p 2471-2480, September 2019. | DOI:
10.1519/JSC.0000000000002230

Anderson, M.L., Anderson,
M.L. and Sanders, A., 2016. An
innovative hangboard design to improve finger strength in rock climbers.
Procedia Engineering, 147, pp.269-274.